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At 8:11am on November 14, 2011, Phil Riddle said…

I have the 5.0 and without the Effi I get a 26% increase in fuel savings..waiting for better weather to get the car up high to get to the 2 sensore. Aparently I have two and the Effi Darol gave me/used one, is a single Effi...I have another single digital Effi from another soarce and Im thinking of putting 1 on 1 and 2 on the them both to the same power soarce..In my case a toggle switch and see what happens..Thought Id Install the upstream first and adjust to 225 MV as Darol suggested then repete the process......A little concerned on finding the signal wire but Darol sent good instructions its just Im not over confident when it comes to electronics.....Darol gave me a deal on a demo model but now he sells them pre assembled for around 333.00 to me he said anyway..then I need the black box controller.......This is for my Ford Club wagon, 1984 model......Darol said all i needed was the 4.5 and a BB as it is carburator with  no fancy electronics. It seems that a lot of the efficiancy is simply acheived with the tons of electrolite used in his units as apposed to 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda by others. I realise it is mostly sodiun Hydroxide and Darol even said he would give me the recipe......No matter what Id still be looking at around 450.00 for MM and BB...Not in my budget.

  I somehow do not see the point in producing so much brown gas when my little toyoto uses so little...I have BB set on 6 amps however Im goina experiment with settings of 7,8,9 and 10...I am also using a low end Map enhancer but frankly cat tell too much as its adjustment is not really defined....turn a little this way and that and all I can tell is the engine runs ruff if I go too far so I back it off until it smooths out....

  .Not an exact science........The 1 digital Effi I have is suppose to control the Map so if this is the case Id rather have the electronice doing it...The Efffi Darol sent does not do this as it is not one he developed rather one he probably pulled off a car that he was upgrading to the 101......

  Id like to get his 101 but another 110 bucks.........Perhaps someday..Darol was very nice to me and gave me several freebies which I greatly appreciate...I live on SS disability and have very little extra........The design of the 4.5 dosent seem too complicated to me as a lot of folks are using the same size and grade of stainless steel and Darol admitingly took his design from another company and Improved it...

  .If u look at the pieces to the kit it is prettty straight foward.....The size of the stainless plates, number of plates, distance apart and the pulse from the BB coupled with all that electrolite makes it produce so much gas..Again, my point is why is that necessary for smaller cars like my Echo when u use the BB to control its production down to 3/8 LPM. It seems to me if this is all I needed in gas production then a less expensive model would sufice providing I could control the heat and output of gas, which is what the BB or pulse width Modulator does...Am I correct????

  Darol is a very bright man, oviously but why would he make a kit that requires speciality cutting of the inner ring thinggy....Make the part easily assembled and he would sell more, not that he needs to from his on account. I went bk and forth with him on several things, over 100 emails and Im sure he thinks me the idiot but I assure you Im far from it...I just wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly as there were some descrepancies in his simple drawing of the MM installition...

  For 1 he shows the 12 v DC comming off BB and going to the amp guage and the amp meter symple shows the bk of the amp guage and the wire going to the right side then the lft side goes to MM center position...Providing which way u turn the amp guage backwards u can get a different result..Bare with me.....I know the amp guage is just running the positive current thru the guage but the bk of the guage never the less has a positive and a negitive symbols...I actuall hooked mine up incorrectly using his diagram.....It would be better to show the positive and neg symboles in the diagram so its not possible to hook it up incorrectly.

 I am a 27 year commercial fisherman and and repaired most all of my own engines for 27 years....I can follow instructions but again Im not an electrician or electronics dude...I have a mechanical mind and can fix nearly anything...Yes his diagram is very simple to follow but he needs to make it clearer on the amp guage as I burned 1 out doing it his way and he replaced it for no charge and I tried to pay him for it and even sent hima ck but he returned my money and gave me another freebie.

   I would Install these on a lot of friends cars if they were more afordable and I realise that it takes a long while to assemble these...

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